1388 lines
121 KiB
XML
1388 lines
121 KiB
XML
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
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<pattern labelPrefix="en" passmarkLength="">
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<!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
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<version>0.9.1</version>
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<unit>cm</unit>
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<description>Jeans mit gerader Seitennaht
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Müller u. Sohn Zeitschrift Ausgabe 10.20 , Seite 47-50 vom PDf (bzw. 14 - 17 vom Herrenteil)</description>
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<notes>17.10.20:
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Anpassugen für die Kurzhose -> enger am Saum (-3.5)
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Hosenschlitzuntertritt gerade an der oberen Kante</notes>
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<patternName>Jeans Selvedge</patternName>
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<patternNumber>#4</patternNumber>
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<company>CrazyRori</company>
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<customer/>
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<birthDate>2000-01-01</birthDate>
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<email/>
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<patternLabel dateFormat="dd/MM/yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
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<line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
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<line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
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<line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
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<line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
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<line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
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</patternLabel>
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<finalMeasurements>
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<finalMeasurment formula="Line_A34_A1" name="Fehlbetrag_Bund"/>
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<finalMeasurment description="Soll möglichst = 0 sein" formula="(SplPath_A1b_A97+Spl_A19_A17)*2-#Bu" name="Kontrolle_Konstruktion_Bundumfang"/>
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<finalMeasurment description="Muss ca 0.4 - 0.7 sein" formula="(Line_A10_A11+SplPath_A12_A11)-(Line_A22_A24+SplPath_A32_A24)" name="Kontrolle_Konstruktion_Schrittnaht"/>
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<finalMeasurment description="sollte max ein paar mm sein" formula="Spl_A12_A93 - Spl_A32_A92" name="Kontrolle_Konstruktion_Innennaht_Kurzhose"/>
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<finalMeasurment description="Mehrweite des kompletten Umfangs" formula="(Line_A4_A5+Line_A4_A29)*2-#Hu" name="Kontrolle_Mehrweite_Hüfte"/>
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<finalMeasurment description="Mehrweite des kompletten Umfangs" formula="(Line_A109_A110+Line_A109_A111)-leg_thigh_upper_circ" name="Kontrolle_Mehrweite_Oberschenkel"/>
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<finalMeasurment description="Mehrweite des kompletten Umfangs" formula="(Line_A86_A87+Line_A86_A88)-leg_calf_circ" name="Kontrolle_Mehrweite_Waden"/>
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<finalMeasurment description="Soll > 0 für Bewebungsfreiheit" formula="#Kw - leg_knee_circ_bent" name="Kontrolle_Knie_gebeugt"/>
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</finalMeasurements>
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<measurements path="smart_pattern_#184_case1.vit"/>
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<increments>
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<increment description="Bundumfang 14.01.2022 von +0.5 zu +1 gewechselt, da bei der letzten Hose etwas zu eng" formula="waist_natural_circ+1" name="#Bu"/>
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<increment description="Hüftumfang am 08.05.2021 -1 entfernt (vorher 93 cm dann 94)" formula="hip_circ" name="#Hu"/>
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<increment description="Knieweite 01.03.2021 von + 3.5 auf + 5.5 angepasst 08.05.2021 von 5.5 auf 6.5 angepasst" formula="leg_knee_circ+ 6.5" name="#Kw"/>
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<increment description="Fussweite am 01.05.2021 -> +2 hinzugefügt" formula="leg_ankle_diag_circ +2" name="#Fw"/>
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<increment description="Vorderhosenbreite" formula="#Hu/4" name="#Vhbr"/>
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<increment description="Vorderhosenspaltdurchmesser" formula="#Hu/20+0.5" name="#Vhsd"/>
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<increment description="Hinterhosenbreite Zugabe 3.5 - 4.5" formula="#Hu/4+3.5" name="#Hhbr"/>
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<increment description="Hinterhosenspaltdurchmesser Zugabe 1.5 - 2.5" formula="#Hu/10+1.5" name="#Hhsd"/>
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<increment description="Hosenkürzung 14.01.2022 von 3 zu 1" formula="1" name="#Hk"/>
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<increment description="Seitenlänge" formula="leg_waist_side_to_floor - #Hk" name="#Sl"/>
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<increment description="Schrittlänge (Vom Boden bis zum Schritt) " formula="leg_crotch_to_floor - #Hk" name="#Schrl"/>
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<increment description="Leibhöhe" formula="#Sl-#Schrl" name="#Lh"/>
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<increment description="Oberschenkelhöhe (für die Kontrolle)" formula="leg_crotch_to_floor - 5 - #Hk" name="#Osh"/>
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<increment description="Knihöhe (von Boden bis zum Knie)" formula="height_knee - #Hk" name="#Knh"/>
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<increment description="Wadenhöhe" formula="height_calf - #Hk" name="#Wh"/>
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<increment description="Länge Kurzhose" formula="42" name="#Lkh"/>
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<increment description="Bundhöhe" formula="4" name="#Bh"/>
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<increment description="Gürtelschlaufenbreite" formula="1.2" name="#Gsb"/>
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<increment description="Gürtelschlaufenlänge" formula="11" name="#Gsl"/>
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<increment description="Vordertaschenhöhe (Vorher 8.5)" formula="7" name="#Vth"/>
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<increment description="Vordertaschenbreite" formula="11" name="#Vtb"/>
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<increment description="0 für ohne Umschlag, 1 für mit Umschlag" formula="0" name="#mitUmschlag"/>
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<increment description="Saumumschlagbreite 01.05.2021 von 5 auf 4 geändert, so passt die Länge der Hose genau" formula="4" name="#Sasb"/>
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<increment description="Länge des Reissverschlusses (Länge der Metalteile, nicht des Stoffes)" formula="12" name="#Rvl"/>
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<increment formula="1" name="#istEinteiligerHosenschlitz"/>
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<increment description="Hosenschlitzlänge für 2-teiligen Hosenschlitz, mit Reissverschluss von 1.5 auf 2 geändert, damit die Zugabe für das Schrägband hier bereits enthalten ist." formula="#Rvl+2" name="#HlRv2t"/>
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<increment description="Hosenschlitzlänge für 1-teiligen Hosenschlitz, mit Knöpfen" formula="14" name="#HlKn1t"/>
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<increment description="Hosenschlitzlänge" formula="(#istEinteiligerHosenschlitz==0)?#HlRv2t:#HlKn1t" name="#Hl"/>
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<increment description="Hosenschlitz Unter- und Übertrittbreite" formula="3.75" name="#HUUB"/>
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<increment description="Breite der kleinen Knöpfe vom Hosenschlitz" formula="1.4" name="#HKKnB"/>
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<increment description="Breite der Knopflöcher vom Hosenschlitz" formula="#HKKnB+0.3" name="#HKKnLB"/>
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<increment description="Breite der großen Knöpfe vom Hosenschlitz" formula="1.7" name="#HGKnB"/>
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<increment description="Breite des grossen Knopfloches vom Hosenschlitz" formula="#HGKnB+0.3" name="#HGKnLB"/>
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<increment description="Bundfehlbetragabzug normalerweise 0.5" formula="0.5" name="#Bfa"/>
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<increment description="1 für Test, 0 für nicht Test -> hat z.B. einen Einfluss auf den Saum" formula="0" name="#istTest"/>
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</increments>
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<previewCalculations/>
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<draw name="Hose">
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<calculation>
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<point id="1" mx="-3.6397" my="-0.408989" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="4.44267" y="103.231"/>
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<point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#Sl" lineColor="black" mx="-3.90408" my="-0.609353" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#Knh" lineColor="black" mx="-3.18534" my="-0.753101" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="#Schrl" lineColor="black" mx="-3.76033" my="-0.609354" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point firstPoint="4" id="5" length="#Hu/20+3" lineColor="black" mx="-4.19157" my="-0.7531" name="A4" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="6" length="#Vhbr" lineColor="black" mx="1.62914" my="-1.48423" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<line firstPoint="1" id="7" lineColor="orange" secondPoint="2" typeLine="dotLine"/>
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<point firstPoint="6" id="9" mx="1.62836" my="-2.38867" name="A6" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
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<line firstPoint="2" id="10" lineColor="orange" secondPoint="9" typeLine="dotLine"/>
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<point firstPoint="6" id="11" mx="-2.42561" my="0.689288" name="A7" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
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<line firstPoint="9" id="12" lineColor="orange" secondPoint="11" typeLine="dotLine"/>
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<point angle="0" basePoint="6" id="13" length="#Vhsd" lineColor="black" mx="0.515989" my="1.15109" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="15" length="#Kw/2-2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.38751" my="-1.36281" name="A9" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="17" length="#Fw/2-2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<line firstPoint="1" id="18" lineColor="darkBlue" secondPoint="17" typeLine="hair"/>
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<line firstPoint="17" id="19" lineColor="orange" secondPoint="15" typeLine="dotLine"/>
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<point angle="90" basePoint="17" id="20" length="(#mitUmschlag==1)?#Sasb:0.5" lineColor="black" mx="-3.41982" my="-0.597328" name="A11" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<line firstPoint="17" id="21" lineColor="darkBlue" secondPoint="20" typeLine="hair"/>
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<line firstPoint="15" id="22" lineColor="orange" secondPoint="13" typeLine="dotLine"/>
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<point id="23" mx="0.888233" my="0.806253" name="A12" p1Line1="4" p1Line2="13" p2Line1="11" p2Line2="15" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
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<line firstPoint="4" id="24" lineColor="orange" secondPoint="23" typeLine="dotLine"/>
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<spline aScale="10" color="darkBlue" id="25" penStyle="hair" type="pathInteractive">
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<pathPoint angle1="63.439" angle2="243.439" length1="0" length2="9.2951" pSpline="23"/>
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<pathPoint angle1="81.7129" angle2="261.713" length1="6.53313" length2="6.71593" pSpline="15"/>
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<pathPoint angle1="90.8626" angle2="270.863" length1="4.3276" length2="2.65454" pSpline="20"/>
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</spline>
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<point firstPoint="23" id="26" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.26966" my="1.59018" name="A13" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point firstPoint="11" id="27" length="Line_A13_A7" lineColor="black" mx="-4.37887" my="0.193258" name="A14" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point firstPoint="9" id="30" length="1.5" lineColor="black" mx="-1.6558" my="-3.52387" name="A16" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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<point firstPoint="30" id="31" mx="-2.07096" my="1.98862" name="A17" secondPoint="29" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
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<spline aScale="10" color="darkBlue" id="602" penStyle="hair" type="pathInteractive">
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<pathPoint angle1="96.9529" angle2="AngleLine_A17_A5" length1="0" length2="2.07556" pSpline="31"/>
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